Introduction
Since 1988 Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) has been under
the military rule of the State Peace and Development Council
(SPDC) - formerly known as Slorc - an abominable military
junta. Prospective travellers should monitor events in Myanmar
and weigh up the arguments in support of and opposition to
travel.
Dissent is suppressed, and political prisoners are jailed
for expressing their opinions. Nobel Peace Prize Laureate
and National League for Democracy (NLD) leader Aung San Suu
Kyi advocates boycotting all forms of travel to the country
as a means of isolating the government and forcing reform.
Inside Myanmar, there are a number of people who support her
stance. This pro-boycott group argues that much of the money
from tourism goes directly and indirectly into the pockets
of the very generals who continue to deny Burmese citizens
the most-basic civil rights. However, others involved with
Burmese politics, including many current or former members
of the NLD, feel that a travel boycott of Myanmar is counterproductive.
They maintain that tourism is not only economically helpful,
but vital to the pro-democracy movement for the two-way flow
of information it provides.
When to Visit Myanmar
Climate wise, the best season for visiting Myanmar is November
to February, when it rains least and isn't too hot. If you're
hitting the hill stations or the Rakhine coast, try March
to May - on the other hand, Bagan and Mandalay are intolerable
during these months. Myanmar is least crowded in May, June
and September.
Attraction in Myanmar
Yangon (Rangoon)
Yangon lies in the fertile delta country of southern Myanmar
on the Yangon River. Although the population hovers around
4 million, the city seems so full of trees and shade that
some neighbourhoods are practically jungle, giving it a totally
different feel from other Asian cities of comparable size.
At night, Yangon's wide boulevards come alive with hordes
of stalls selling delicious food and piles of huge cigars.
If you can close your eyes to the decay of the old colonial
architecture downtown, you'll probably agree that this is
one of the most charming cities in Asia.
Bagan
This bewildering, deserted city of fabulous pagodas and temples
on the banks of the Ayeyarwady is one of the wonders of Asia.
Bagan's period of grandeur stretched from the 11th to the
13th centuries, and an enormous number of magnificent buildings
were constructed here. The city was sacked by Kublai Khan
in 1287 and never rebuilt. There are some 5000 temples, the
most interesting of which are Ananda, Thatbyinnyu and Gawdawpalin.
Bago (Pega)
During the Mon dynasty, Bago was a fabulous city, a major
seaport and capital of lower Myanmar. The city was destroyed
by the Burman in 1757 but partially restored in the early
19th century. When the Bago River changed its course and cut
the city off from the sea, Bago failed to return to its previous
grandeur. Sights include the Shwemawdaw Pagoda, which dominates
the town, the Hintha Gone Pagoda and the 55m-long (180ft)
reclining Shwethalyaung Buddha.
Mandalay
This sprawling cultural centre is the most Burman of Myanmar's
cities. It was the last capital of Myanmar before the British
took over and is the country's second-largest city, complete
with bustling markets of produce and handicrafts from all
over Upper Myanmar.
Highlights of Mandalay include Shwenandaw Kyaung, the sole
remaining building of the once extravagant moated palace;
Mandalay Hill, with its spiralling stairways, temples and
sweeping views; and the ancient Rakhine Buddha image at Mahamuni
Paya. There are four 'deserted cities' nearby: Amarapura,
Sagaing, Ava and Mingun. Mingun is the most appealing of the
four; not only are there some wonderful monuments in various
states of disrepair, but just getting there is half the fun.
The boat ride from Mandalay is a treat.
Kengtung (Kyaingtong)
Tucked away in a far eastern corner of the Shan State is the
sleepy but historic centre for the state's Khün culture.
Built around a small lake and dotted with aging Buddhist temples
and crumbling British colonial architecture, Kengtung is probably
the most scenic town in the Shan State.
Its opening to foreigners in 1993 came as a complete surprise,
considering that this is one of the most remote inhabited
mountain valleys in Myanmar. Access is difficult and restricted
to flights from Myanmar's interior or a rough overland trip
from Tachilek. Apart from the temples and monasteries in the
area, it's fun to check out the water buffalo market on the
western outskirts of town. Held daily, it's like a used-car
lot, with pedlars extolling the virtues of their animals while
buyers point out their flaws. When finally a price is agreed
upon, money changes hands and the new owners walk off leading
their buffaloes by the nose.
 Mawlamyine
(Moulmein)
If you're wondering what Yangon and Mandalay looked and felt
like years ago, come to Mawlamyine where the atmosphere of
post-colonial decay is still palpable. Once a major teak port,
this tropical, hillside town south of Thaton is known for
its scenic surrounds, elephant labour and beautiful pagodas.
Thanbyuzayat, 60km (37mi) to the south, has an Allied cemetery
- the resting place of prisoners who died building the infamous
'death railway' during WWII. Mawlamyine is the only place
in Burma that Rudyard Kipling, author of the famous Road to
Mandalay, actually visited.
Mrauk U (Myohaung)
Hidden in the encroaching jungle, in hill country close to
the Bangladesh border, Mrauk U is reached only by riverboat
- well off the beaten track! It is noteworthy for its Arakanese
art and architecture, and its Buddhist temple ruins. Important
ruins include the 80,000 Pagoda (so named because of the 80,000
Buddah images found there) and an ordination hall. Mrauk U
is accessible from Sittwe in western Myanmar.
Reaching Myanmar
Although Myanmar essentially remains a 'fly in, fly out' destination,
the good news is that the military government has gradually
extended visa stays, resulting in more and more airlines putting
Rangoon on their itinerary. The 10.00 departure tax can be
paid for in dollars or Foreign Exchange Certificates (FECS).
 There
are some road border crossings at the Thai/Myanmar border
(noticeably the Mae Sai-Thakhilek and Ranong-Kawthoung crossings)
but they're currently closed because of guerrilla and bandit
activity in the area. In times of certainty, foreign travellers
can travel the famous Burma Road and enter Myanmar via the
Yunnan province in China, although border traffic is all one
way. It's not possible to cross back into China from the same
checkpoint. Several entry points have also opened along the
Thai border.
One persistent rumour is that the Chin State is about to open
its borders to limited tour groups, which may parlay in the
not-too-distant future into permission for individual travellers
to traverse the state via the Chin River, all the way to the
Indian border at Tamu. |
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